Reviving an almost-extinct form of embroidery in India – Tepchi Chikankari of Lucknow

LUCKNOW: He is not just a fashion designer, but Aamir Sharief is a craftsman and embroider himself, belonging to an illustrious line and family that has kept the hand embroidery craft alive in the interiors of Lucknow. And with actor Rayya Labib wearing the intricate outfits for an upcoming film project, Aamir Sharief hopes it will give a big boost to the art and crafts of the almost-forgotten times.

Both Rayya and designer Aamir Sharief have teamed up to promote Tepchi Chikankari designs through her film project and help revive a dying art and craft.

Sharief has come up the hard way, working on designs, embroidery and embellishments with his own hands over the last ten years. And this hands-on experience of about 15 years was very apparent when he spoke to us on phone from Lucknow.

According to Aamir Sharief. “We all know about Lucknowi chikankari work and its various forms. But not many people have heard of Lucknowi tepchi work on Kota fabric. Tepchi is one of thirty-two kinds of chikankari embroidery and is one of the most delicate and intricate forms of embroidery. It is single-thread hand-work which looks good with medium sized floral designs. The delicate, very thin cotton thread work is done is such a way that it gives the impression of print on fabric. The beauty of the work is such that the same kind of stitching pattern runs on flowers, leaves and stems – in fact over the entire design and looks really amazing. It is difficult to make out the right and wrong side of the embroidery by just looking at it and hence it is also known as magic work. Every stitch is similar to the other and uses a very thin type of thread.”

Says Aamir Sharief, “This is a dying tradition and art-form or art work and we hope to promote tepchi chikankari designs bringing the artistic expertise to the fore putting this forgotten art on the fashion map of the world.”